Local Food in Zahle: Riverside Mezze, Arak and Wineries
Mezze by the Berdawni river, handmade ice cream and a cool winery cave: a day of eating well in the Bride of the Bekaa.
- Region
- Bekaa Valley (Zahle)
- Time needed
- One full day
- Best time to visit
- May to October, harvest in September
Zahle is the largest town in the Bekaa, built on both sides of the Berdawni river where it leaves the mountains and runs into the valley. Lebanese call it the Bride of the Bekaa, and the town calls itself the city of wine and poetry. For visitors, that translates into two things: long mezze lunches by the river, and some of the country’s oldest wineries a short drive away.
This guide combines both into a day that works for families: riverside food, ice cream, a winery visit with grape juice for the children and arak for the adults, and an easy view over the valley. It replaces our older Zahle vineyards page, so the wine section below is the one to use.
The Berdawni: Zahle’s riverside restaurants
The Berdawni comes down from Mount Sannine and flows through the middle of town. Along its banks, open-air restaurants known locally as “casinos” sit under trees and awnings, with tables close to the water and small fountains to keep the air cool in summer. This is where the classic Zahle lunch happens: a parade of thirty or more mezze plates, fresh mountain bread, grilled meats, and arak poured over ice and water until it turns cloudy.
Casino Arabi is one of the best-known riverside names, with a deck over the water; it is not the cheapest, but it is the setting most people picture when they think of Zahle. Further up, the restaurants of Kaa el Rim sit on the cliffs above the river with views down the gorge.
What to order
- Kibbeh nayyeh: raw lamb and fine bulgur, a Bekaa favourite, eaten with mint, raw onion and olive oil. See our kibbeh nayyeh recipe.
- Hummus, moutabal and tabbouleh: the base of every table.
- Grilled meats: lamb skewers, kafta and chicken, often at the end of the meal.
- Kibbeh bi laban: kibbeh balls simmered in warm yogurt sauce, a home dish worth asking for. Our kibbeh in yogurt sauce recipe shows how it is made.
- Booza: stretchy Arabic ice cream with mastic and ashta (clotted cream). Boozah Khalaf and Abou Sleiman, on the Berdawni, has been making it by hand for three generations.
Zahle’s wineries and arak
The Bekaa produces most of Lebanon’s wine, and Zahle is the easiest base for a first winery visit. Several estates welcome visitors for tastings; book ahead, especially at weekends and during the September and October harvest.
Château Ksara
Château Ksara, just south of town, was founded in 1857 by Jesuits and is the oldest and largest winery in the country. The highlight for families is the network of cool underground caves, about two kilometres long, where bottles age in the dark.
Domaine Wardy
Domaine Wardy is a Zahle family estate whose winemaking and arak history goes back to 1881. It produces wine, arak and vodka, and visitors talk about outdoor wine and arak tastings on the property.
Smaller Zahle names
Two family producers carry the town’s name on their labels: Château Heritage, which makes wine and arak, and Château Trois Collines, named for three hills of Zahle. Château Khoury is known for its view over the valley. For a wider choice, see our list of the best wineries to visit in Lebanon or browse Lebanese wine and beer.
Arak is the drink Zahle is proudest of. It is distilled from local grapes and aniseed, aged in clay jars, and always mixed with water and ice at the table. Order it with mezze, never on its own.
A suggested family day
Morning
Start with manousheh and hot ka’ak (sesame bread) from a bakery in the town centre. Then drive up to Our Lady of Zahle, the 54 metre tower topped with a bronze statue of the Virgin Mary that was completed in 1958; the viewing platform looks over the whole town and valley. Nearby in the old town, the 18th century Monastery of Our Lady of Najat (Saydet el Najat) is known for its gardens and for having the largest bell in Lebanon.
Afternoon
Go down to the Berdawni for a long lunch by the river, then walk along the water for booza. Children enjoy the paths and the sound of the river; adults will want a short rest before the winery.
Late afternoon
Visit Château Ksara’s caves for a tour and tasting. If you would rather be outdoors, take the short drive south to Taanayel, where the lake and farm land are good for a walk and Al Khan al Makssoud, run by the NGO arcenciel, serves rustic Bekaa dishes in a garden.
Food to take home
Zahle is a good place to stock up. Skaff Dairy Farm makes labneh and cheeses in the Bekaa, and Zahle’s wineries sell wine and arak at the cellar door.
Practical tips
- Zahle sits at about 1,000 metres, so evenings are cooler than in Beirut. Bring a light jacket even in summer.
- Mezze lunches are slow. Plan on two to three hours and do not book anything tight afterwards.
- Book winery visits in advance and choose a driver who will skip the tasting.
- Riverside restaurants are busiest on Sunday afternoons. Go on Saturday or a weekday for a quieter table.
- Check current travel advice before visiting the Bekaa; some areas further south and east of Zahle are under travel warnings from foreign governments.
Nearby
Anjar’s Umayyad ruins are about 30 minutes south, and the Roman temples of Baalbek are under an hour north; see our Baalbek guide. Both pair well with a night in Zahle.
