Local Food in Batroun: A Day Trip for Couples
Fresh fish off the boats, a lemonade recipe from 1888 and vineyards ten minutes from the sea. This is how to spend a slow, delicious day in Batroun for two.
- Region
- Batroun, North Lebanon
- Time needed
- A full day
- Best time to visit
- April to June, September to October
Batroun is a small coastal town about an hour north of Beirut, and it has quietly become one of the best places in Lebanon for a slow, food-led day with someone you like. The old town is compact and walkable, the fish comes off boats in the harbour, the lemonade is famous across the country, and some of Lebanon’s most interesting boutique wineries sit in the hills a few minutes inland.
It is also old. Batroun was the Phoenician Botrys, and the natural sea wall by the harbour, long called the Phoenician wall, still breaks the waves beside a small Roman theatre with nine surviving steps. That mix of history and good eating is what makes the day work.
What to eat in Batroun
- Lemonade: Batroun’s signature. It is made with local lemons, sugar and orange blossom, and it tastes nothing like the bottled kind.
- Fresh fish: grilled or fried, with tahini sauce and fried bread. Look for whatever came in that morning.
- Man’oushe: za’atar or cheese flatbread straight from the oven for breakfast.
- Kebbet el hile: a meatless kibbeh of grain and pumpkin filled with greens, chickpeas and pomegranate, often made for Good Friday.
- Maacroun bi toum: little hand-rolled dough pieces in a sharp garlic and lemon dressing, a northern home dish.
- Local wine and arak: from the terraced vineyards in the Batroun hills.
A suggested day for two
Morning: man’oushe and the old town
Drive up the coastal highway early. Start with man’oushe at Furn Merchak, a breakfast bakery known for its classic toppings, then walk into the old souk, a cobbled lane under sandstone arches. Wander down to the harbour to see the fishing boats, the Phoenician sea wall and the Roman theatre, and step into St Stephen’s Cathedral, which faces the old port. The little church of Our Lady of the Sea sits on the rocks a short walk away.
Late morning: lemonade
Stop at Hilmi’s Lemonade, a Batroun family business that dates back to 1888 and is now run by three Hilmi sisters. Order the classic first, then the mint. Buy a bottle to take away for the drive.
Lunch: fish by the sea
For seafood with a view of the port, Oysters Seafood Bar is family-owned and sits right over the harbour. If you prefer home-style Lebanese cooking, Jammal Restaurant serves local dishes in a restored old stone house, and Kun Lebnene at Capo Batroun pairs a traditional Lebanese spread with wide sea views. Order a mezze of tabbouleh, hummus and fattoush, then fish of the day.
Afternoon: into the wine hills
Batroun district has one of the densest clusters of wineries in the country. IXSIR is the best known, with high-altitude vineyards and a striking modern winery. Clos du Phoenix in Eddé is a certified organic family winery, and Domaine S.Najm in Chabtine makes wine, arak and olive oil among very old olive trees. Most wineries ask you to book a tasting ahead, and one of you will need to stay sober for the mountain roads.
Evening: sunset and a cold beer
Come back down for sunset. Colonel Beer, Lebanon’s first microbrewery, sits by the sea in Batroun and runs events in summer, while Bolero is a favourite for sunset drinks. Finish with a walk through the old souk once the lights come on.
When to go
Batroun changes with the seasons. Late spring is ideal for couples: the sea is warming up, the hills are green and the old town is calm on weekdays. Summer brings beach clubs, crowds and long evenings, which suit a livelier trip. September and October are harvest time in the vineyards, when several wineries are at their busiest and the light over the sea is softer. Around Easter, look for kebbet el hile in local bakeries and homes, as it is traditionally made for Good Friday. In winter many beach places close, but the old town, the restaurants and the wineries stay open, and a quiet grey day by the harbour has its own charm.
Where to stay
If you want to make a night of it, Beit Al Batroun is a five-room bed and breakfast near Thoum, built from upcycled materials around a traditional central hall. L’Auberge de la Mer is a nine-room boutique hotel right in the old souk, steps from the harbour.
Nearby
- Mseilha Fort: a small fort perched on a limestone rock by the Nahr el Jawz, built in the 17th century under Emir Fakhreddine II to guard the coast road. It takes ten minutes and makes a great photo.
- Nahr el Jawz (Walnut River): an easy, shaded walk under walnut trees, about 11 km inland.
- Byblos: 20 minutes south, with its harbour and ruins. See our Byblos food guide.
- Beaches: Batroun’s coast is full of beach clubs. Our Batroun beach guide has the picks.
Practical tips
- Summer weekends get very busy, and the old town fills up at night. Come on a weekday or in spring and autumn for a calmer day.
- Book lunch on summer weekends and winery tastings at any time of year.
- Parking in the old town is tight. Leave the car at the edge and walk.
- Take home some local olive oil: Zejd is based in Batroun and makes award-winning extra virgin oils.
