Byblos Day Trip for Families: Castle, Souk, Fossils and Harbour
One of the oldest cities in the world, small enough to walk with children: a Crusader castle, a shady souk, fish fossils and a fishing harbour.
- Region
- Jbeil (Byblos), Mount Lebanon
- Time needed
- One full day
- Best time to visit
- April to June, September to October
Byblos, Jbeil in Arabic, sits on a low sandstone cliff by the sea about 40 km north of Beirut. People have lived here since the Neolithic, and the city gave its name to the Greek word for book, because papyrus passed through its port. It is also linked to the origins of the Phoenician alphabet, and the whole old town has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984.
For families, Byblos works because it is compact. The castle, the ruins, the old souk and the harbour are all within a short walk, there is plenty of shade in the souk, and the town has a few things children remember for years: climbing a Crusader tower, finding fish fossils that are millions of years old, and watching fishing boats come in. Here is how to spend a relaxed day there.
What to see
The castle and archaeological site
The Crusaders built the castle in the 12th century from older stones, and its tower is the best lookout in town. From the top, the archaeological site spreads out below you toward the sea: Bronze Age temples, Persian fortifications, a Roman road, a small Roman theatre rebuilt near the shore, and the royal necropolis where the sarcophagus of King Ahiram was found, carved with the oldest known Phoenician inscription (the sarcophagus itself is now in the National Museum of Beirut). The site is large and signage is limited, so a local guide at the entrance is worth it if your children have questions. Go in the morning, before the stones heat up.
The old souk
Below the castle, the restored souk is a few lanes of stone arches and small shops. You will find embroidery, herbs and spices, leather bags, pottery, glass and paintings by local artists, plus ice cream and fresh juice when the kids need a break. It is car-free, which makes it easy with a stroller or small children.
Memory of Time fossil museum
The best stop for children is Memory of Time, a fossil shop and museum in the old souk, opened in 1991. It displays fish, sharks, rays, shrimp, squid, eels and even coelacanths preserved in limestone, most of them from the nearby mountain villages of Haqel, Hjoula and Ennammoura. In spring and autumn the family that runs it leads fossil excursions to the quarries, which older children will love.
Saint John Mark Church
The Church of Saint John Mark (Mar Youhanna Marcos), built by the Crusaders in the 12th century, stands a few steps from the souk. Look for the small open-air domed baptistery beside it. It is a working church, so keep voices low and dress modestly.
The old harbour
The small fishing harbour is one of the oldest ports in the world, and in the third millennium BC it shipped cedar and wine to Egypt. Today it is lined with fishing boats and seafood restaurants. Walk the breakwater for a view back over the town, and ask at the port about short boat trips to see Byblos from the sea.
A suggested day
Morning
Arrive by 9 if you can. Start at the castle and archaeological site while it is cool, and climb the tower for the view over the ruins and the coast.
Afternoon
Walk down to the souk, visit Memory of Time and Saint John Mark Church, then have a long seafood lunch by the harbour. After lunch, let the children run along the waterfront while you sit with a coffee.
Evening
Rent bikes and ride the coastal road north to the fishing town of Amchit, or drive 8 km into the hills to the Bentael Nature Reserve, an oak and pine forest that local villagers protected in the 1980s, for a short walk before sunset. In summer, check the programme of the Byblos International Festival, held by the sea next to the castle.
Where to eat and stay
The harbour restaurants are the obvious choice: a whole grilled fish, fried calamari, tabbouleh, hummus and fries keep everyone happy. For a night in town, Aleph Boutique Hotel is a contemporary boutique hotel in the heart of old Byblos, and Byblos Sur Mer is a seafront hotel with Mediterranean views and seafood dining.
To take a piece of the area home, Adonis Valley, an organic farm in Fatri in the Byblos hills, makes honey, tahini, pomegranate molasses and tomato paste, and L’Atelier du Savon Barbar makes handmade cold-process soaps from the hills of Byblos. For grown-ups, Domaine St Gabriel is a family winery in Ghalboun, a short drive inland.
Practical tips
- Wear comfortable shoes with grip. The souk cobbles and the ruins are uneven and slippery when polished.
- Bring hats, sunscreen and water for the archaeological site, which has little shade.
- Weekends and summer evenings are busy. A weekday visit is calmer with small children.
- Carry some cash for small shops and parking.
- Byblos is easy to combine with Jounieh, Jeita Grotto or Batroun on the same trip.
Nearby
For more food in town, see our guide to local food in Byblos. Half an hour south, Jounieh Bay has the cable car to Harissa. Families who love museums can continue with our list of the top museums in Lebanon.
